中草藥在皮膚保養品之應用開發
陳榮秀
嘉南藥理科技大學
皮膚保養品的使用已成為生活的一部份，全球化粧品與美容相關市場高達2仟億美元，且以每年7%速度成長，超越世界GDP成長率的兩倍之多。化粧品市場之成長主要來自產品功效之提昇，利用中草藥理論記載完整的先天優勢以及現代科技的反覆驗證，使傳統醫學與現代美容科技整合，不但可使傳統中草藥永續發展，且為世界潮流發展趨勢。中草藥與生活文化間多樣性利用之研究，以漢方化粧品為出發點，可說是連接傳統中草藥及現代皮膚科學的重要橋樑。
依整體護膚功效分析，與護膚產品相關的基本功能大致可分為六項，依序分別為抗老、保濕、去角質、潔膚、美白、防曬等。本計畫擬建立中草藥應用於皮膚保養品之有效性驗證系統，並評估各種中草藥材應用於化粧品之安全性，提供未來中草藥應用於皮膚保養品開發之參考。主要計畫內容分成四個子項目：
1.資料蒐集-蒐集內容包括典籍文獻記載之中草藥應用於化粧品之資料。
2.中草藥萃取-依據各方資料所歸納之中草藥，經過基原鑑定後，進行萃取工作。
3.有效性評估-利用已建立化粧品功效篩選與評估平台，進行有效性評估測試，確認中草藥應用於化粧品之可行性，測試項目包含：美白、防曬、保濕、抗氧化及抗菌等功效。
4.安全性評估-化粧保養品的使用需直接接觸皮膚，因此有必要評估其對皮膚的安全性與刺激性。本計畫擬以細胞毒性試驗測試方法評估中草藥萃取物對皮膚之刺激性或毒性。
本校以藥學起家，且為全國首先設立的化粧品專門科系，成立至今十餘年，更於92年度獲准設立全國第一所化粧品科技研究所，研發人才與設備齊全。並且累積了多年中草藥添加於化粧品之研發經驗，95-96年承接衛生署中醫藥委員會計畫，初步篩選66種中草藥適合應用於化粧品，此成果有3篇發表於國際化粧品研討會，兩篇發表於亞太藥學新知研討會，本次希望透過後續計畫執行，將中草藥應用於皮膚保養品進行完整周密的整理與研究，並建立完善的資料庫，使傳統中草藥資源能成功地應用於生技或相關產業中，達到中草藥永續發展與研發應用之目標。
關鍵字：中草藥；化粧品；有效性；安全性；研發應用
Development of the Chinese herbal medicines applications on skin care products
Zong-Shiow Chen
Chia-Nan University of Pharmacy and Science
The global cosmetic market was estimated up to 200 billions US dollars, and was growing up at a rate of 7% per year. It was two times of the GDP growing rate. The major products among the cosmetic martets are antiaging, skin moisturizer, dekeratinizer, cleanser, whitening and sunscreen. Since the additions of plant extracts into cosmetics are popular in Europe and America. In order to establish a competitive product, the goal of this proposal is focused on the application of Chinese herbs on cosmetics.
The proposal was divided into four parts as followings:
1.Literature searches: Informations about the application of natural products will be surveyed from other countries and traditional Chinese documents.
2.Plant extraction: Putative herbs will be extracted.
3.Efficacy evaluation: The efficacy of herbal extracts on skin whitening, sunscreen, humectants, antiaging, antioxidant and bactericidal activities will be examed by in vitro methods.
4.Safety examination: Irritency of the herbal extracts will be examined by alternative methods.
Chia-Nan University was founded on the basis of pharmacy sciences. And the cosmetic department and institute were the first established departments. We are interested in the research of Chinese herbs application on cosmetics. Among them 66 herbs were examined and could be useful for cosmetic applications. Some of the results were published in the international conferences. These results will help the design of cosmetic formulation, and the efficacy evaluations of herbal cosmetics. These plans are proposed and will work together to establish a cosmetic technical support for the cooperation company and also for government.
關鍵字：Chinese herbs, cosmetics, efficacy, safety, application
