化妝品含中草藥成分之檢驗方法開發

徐素蘭
中國醫藥大學
有關化妝品之全成分標示，行政院衛生署已公告並於91年5月5日實施。加上近年來興起回歸自然風潮，化妝品公司及學術研究單位投入很多之人力物力從事天然物活性之開發，中草藥提取物添加於化妝品也形成一股熱潮。就管理而言，產品之內容物是否與標示符合，檢驗之配套措施為不可或缺之一環。本計畫擬就含有蘆薈、甘草或黃芩等中藥提取物之化妝品，先由其原料探討以高效液相層析法檢驗其成分之方法，再製作相關之化妝品模型製劑，並探討其成分之檢驗方法。最後再就市售標示含有該等中藥之化妝品探討所建立方法是否可廣泛地適用。檢驗方法之開發包括：適用性，偵測極限，最低可定量濃度，精密度，靈敏度及回收率等之探討。期望透過本研究所建立之方法，可檢驗市售含有蘆薈、甘草或黃芩等中藥提取物之化妝品，以確認產品內容物與標示之一致性，更進一步確保消費者之權益。
關鍵字：高效液相層析法；蘆薈；甘草；黃芩；化妝品

Development of assay methods for cosmectic preparations containing extracts of Chinese herbs

Su-Lan Hsiu
China Medical University
According to the public announcement of DOH, which has been put into effect since 5, May, 2002, each constituent in cosmetic products should be indicated. Recently, with the prevalence of a return to nature, researchers of cosmetic companies and academic units have made their effort for the development of bioactive natural products. It has been a growing tendency to add the extracts of Chinese herbs in cosmetic products. With regard to the management of cosmetic products, it is important to have methods for inspecting whether the contents match those indicated on the cosmetic products. In this project, cosmetic products containing extracts of aloe, licorice or Scutellariae Radix (Scutellaria baicalensis) will be studied. HPLC methods for determination of constituents in the raw materials of herbs will be developed. Model cosmetic preparations will be made and the contents of their constituents will be determined by HPLC methods developed this project. Then, the feasibility of the established assay methods will be evaluated using cosmetic products available from market containing the above herbal extracts. Validation of the assay methods includes suitability (feasibility), lower limit of quantation, precision, sensitivity and recovery.
關鍵字：HPLC；aloe；licorice；Scutellaria baicalensis；cosmetic product