中草藥功能性化妝品之應用開發

李美賢
臺北醫學大
近幾年植物性皮膚保養品之應用已成為消費市場之風潮，因此對於中草藥在皮膚保養化妝之研究更是期待加強。本計劃目的在開發中草藥應用於抗老化、美白等皮膚保養的化妝品，擬利用清除氫氧 (hydroxyl) 自由基以及抑制酪氨酸? (tyrosinase) 活性，來進行皮膚抗老化、美白之活性測試。預計進行傳統古籍文獻中被記載可作為化妝保養品之三十種中草藥材料之收集，以溶劑萃取後，利用抗老化、美白之活性測試，篩選活性強之中草藥，進一步進行其中一種活性中草藥之抽取、分離、純化有效成分，與結構之解析以及活性成分之抗老化、美白、防皺 (抑制matrix metalloproteinase 9之活性) 之活性測試。希望找出具活性之中草藥可做為抗老化、美白、防皺相關產品的添加劑，對將來中草藥於保養化妝品應用開發上更具實質幫助。
關鍵字：中草藥,化妝品,抗老化與美白

The applied development of cosmetics in Chinese Herbal Medicines

Mei-Hsien Lee
Taipei Medical University
Recently, the consumers pay attention to the plant products cosmetics on their use within skin-care preparations. Therefore, the development of Chinese herbal medicines on skin-care cosmetics should be emphasized. The aim of this project was to screen material extracts of Chinese herbal medicines for developing the skin-care cosmetic application on anti-aging and whitening by using hydroxyl radical scavenging activity and inhibition of tyrosinase activity. We will collect thirty kinds of Chinese herbal medicines which usually were used in the skin-care on ancient books. After the extraction of these raw materials, anti-aging and whitening activities will be done. We will select one of these active extracts to isolate and purify the active components by using bio-guide. The structures of active components will be identified by physical data, various spectra and references. Sequentially, the anti-aging, whitening, and anti-wrinkle activities (matrix metalloproteinase 9 inhibitory
關鍵字：Chinese herbal medicines,cosmetics,anti-aging andwhitening